Luxury Mozambique Beach Holidays: Our Experiences
Mahlatini's Managing Director, Greg Fox shares his experience of when he visited Mozambique in July 2005
In July 2005 I decided to take a trip through Mozambique driving from Johannesburg in South Africa via Maputo to Vilanculos, and what a trip it was. Having been to Mozambique on a couple of occasions before I knew what to expect from the popular destinations once I got there but having only flown in and out in the past nothing could have prepaired me for the diversity and natural beauty of the country.
Setting off on a cool winters morning from Johannesburg we drove down from the highveld through Nelspruit and on to the bustling border post of Komatiepoort, the gateway to Mozambique. Armed with all our relevant documentation and insurances we approached the border post with much trepidation having been told plenty of horror stories of huge queues and mass confusion but to our relief found it an extremely easy process and with the help of friendly customs officials on both sides we breezed through in no time ready for the adventure that lay ahead.
Our first taste of Mozambique behind us we headed down the fantastic new highway to Maputo and our first stopover. The vast coastal plains dotted with thorn scrub lie fairly and featureless for the first hundred km’s or so beyond the border as you move down towards the sprawling metropolis of Maputo. The city itself, although run down, is a vibrant mix of grand old Portuguese Colonial architecture and African street culture with bustling with restaurants and markets. Our first stop was at the grand old colonial hotel Polana with it’s magnificent views over the Bay of Maputo which provided a welcome relief to a long days travel with it’s great food, good service and comfortable accommodation.
The following day it was up early in order to catch the ferry from the fishing harbour in Maputo out to Inhaca Island which lies about an hour and 45 minutes by ferry from Maputo or 10 minutes via private air transfer from the Airport in Maputo. The ferry is the only really affordable way to and from the island for the locals and is crammed full of all supplies that they need out on the island which makes for quite an experience. Inhaca is a small piece of untouched paradise and being situated just off Maputo it is easily accessible. We took a drive round the island and were taken to the biology museum which although interesting was unfortunately very run down and past its prime. The natural beauty of the island is breathtaking and its fantastic birdwatching, snorkelling, diving and fishing add to the experience. We headed back that evening to Maputo to sample some of the much vaunted Mozambiquan seafood and get and early nights rest in preparation for our drive up the coast to Inhambane and the Barra peninsular.
We left early as we had been told the drive was quite chaotic and we needed to give ourselves ample time in order to make sure we got there in daylight and didn’t get lost. Heading out through the outskirts of Maputo we drove through the shanty towns that sprawl out around the city and were taken aback by the hustle and bussle of the every day life in Maputo. Poverty is unfortunately a harsh reality here but the bustling street markets, happy, friendly people and general industry are testament to a people driving their country forward after two decades of civil war and looking forward to a bright future.
The drive from Maptuo to Inhambane is through one of the breathtaking regions of the world I have been fortunate enough to visit. The road runs parallel to the coastline which winds it’s way through a system of lakes and estuaries and past secluded villages which lie hidden amongst the vast forests of coconut and cashew trees. A tropical paradise.
The road however was something that had to be seen to be believed, enormous potholes that stretched for 50 km at a time where the norm and I was extremely thankful we were in a 4x4 as I don’t think a normal saloon car would have made it in one piece. This didn’t seem to peter the locals as they drove on as if they weren’t there often driving for long stretches beside the road as it was a better drive! The busses were something to be seen driving at great speed crammed with people inside and piled high with luggage and livestock which were tied to the roof. The road from Maputo to Inhambane has been rebuilt since my trip as part of the Mozambiquan governments development plan for the country so the journey has become far easier. Despite the state of the road it was well worth the drive to see the beauty of the country side and the tropical scenery.
After a long day’s drive we eventually arrived in Inhambane at nightfall and promptly got lost trying to find the Barra peninsular and when finally we arrived it was straight to bed! We awoke to another day in paradise and spent the day exploring the area around Inhambane and the Barra penisular. Again it is an area of great natural beauty and the almost picture perfect scenery with fisherman on their dhows going about their daily business flanked by white palm lined beaches and indigo coral filled seas. We stayed at the friendly Barra Lodge which provides great value accommodation in a fantastic setting.
After two days at Barra Lodge it was time to head further North up to Vilanculos and the world famous Bazaruto Archipelago. The drive again was full of fantastic views and tropical scenery with endless white palm lined beaches and deep blue tropical seas. Once at Vilanculos it was onto a light aircraft and off to Bazaruto Island and Indigo Bay Island Resort. The aircraft flight was an experience in itself as we flew over the expansive bay and the islands of the archipelago. As we strained our necks take in the views we were greeted by a truly breathtaking scene of blue and indigo waters stretching out over the shallow bay flanked by the tropical islands of the archipelago. This is also the home of the elusive dugong but unfortunately we didn’t see any. The lodge itself is a tropical hideaway and offers 5 star service and accommodation and it’s situation on a remote island greatly adds to its appeal. Our days were spent exploring the various islands, having a look at the accommodation they have to offer, taking long swims in the warm shallow waters, sundown cruises on dhows, snorkelling and fishing. Truly a remarkable experience.
From the island hideaways of the Bazaruto Archipelago it was back to the road for the long trip back to South Africa. We stopped off again at Inhambane except this time stayed at the luxurious Flamigo Bay Resort which is built on stilts over the waters of the Inhambane estuary. It is a truly unique experience and has to be seen to be believed. From there we drove back down towards Maputo and stopped outside at the Motapa Estuary Lodge. Situated on the banks of the Nkomati river the lodge offers both a beach and bush experience. The lodge has a fantastic deck overlooking the river and offers the most fantastic views for sundowners. It is a great to stop on any trip from Maputo north or when heading back to South Africa.
The lasting memories of my trip will be the friendliness of the people, the increadible scenery and the deep blue ocean. Driving was certainly an experience and it also allowed me to see many parts of the country that most visitors don’t get to visit when they fly in. I got to interact with the local people on a personal level whether through visiting the local markets, bartering for cashew nuts on the side of the road or just having a chat with locals at the many petrol stations. My overwhelming impression was of a happy people excited about their futures despite the many hardships of the past.
Mozambique is truly somewhere of great natural beauty and combined with the friendliness of the people make it well worth a visit. I for one can’t wait to go back!
If you are interested in speaking to Greg about his trip or would like more information on travelling to Mozambique, Contact Us and we can answer all your questions and build a trip itinerary to your exact specifications.