Our Malawi Experience
You could be forgiven for thinking that such a tiny African country doesn’t really have too much to offer, however, this couldn’t be further from the truth. Malawi is tucked in tightly between Mozambique, Tanzania and Zambia. It is most famous for
Lake Malawi and Liwonde National Park but there is so much more to see and do.
You could be forgiven for thinking that such a tiny African country doesn’t really have too much to offer, however, this couldn’t be further from the truth. Malawi is tucked in tightly between Mozambique, Tanzania and Zambia. It is most famous for
Lake Malawi and Liwonde National Park but there is so much more to see and do.
I grew up in Malawi and over the fourteen years I spent there I was fortunate enough to visit every corner of the
country. My favourite place in Malawi was, and still remains, the lake. With the placid clear blue waters
lapping against the soft, sometimes far too hot white sand, it truly is heaven on earth. Growing up I must have spent hundreds of weekends staying at various lodges
along Lake Malawi. I remember my little sister and I would get to the Lake on a Friday afternoon after the
three hour drive up from Blantyre. As soon as we arrived we’d quickly change into our swimming costumes and sprint across the sand, which I seem to remember being
hotter than the surface of the sun!
In the evenings we would sit out on the porch with Mum and Dad. Mum would have a Malawian gin and tonic in hand (I am still looking for a Gin as tangy) and Dad
a ‘Green’(Carlsberg). We would sit and watch the sun set together. No matter how many times I have seen the sun set over
Lake Malawi, it still takes my breath away. The Lake is often called the Lake of Stars due to the phenomenal night skies. The star gazing is incomparable
and best done whilst lying on your back on the beach. I can assure you that a shooting star is never far away.
During these weekends away Dad would treat us by taking us to Club Makakola where you can enjoy a cocktail by the fabulous pool or hideaway in the tropical gardens.
The photographic treat came at three o’clock. On a pier that runs out into the lake, a Malawian man with a whistle would walk out onto the pier holding the local
chambo fish in his hand. He would raise the chambo high above his head and blow on the whistle. After a tentative wait you would hear the whoosh of the fish eagle’s
wings before you saw it. The bird would swoop and circle and once the man had the bird’s attention he would throw the chambo high into the air, whereupon the magnificent
eagle would dive with precise aim and grab the fish. We would always be mesmerised by the pure strength and beauty of this bird. No matter where you stay along
the Lake you will hear the fish eagle’s cry in the mornings and at dusk. Searching for these magnificent birds along the lake isn’t hard; the flash of the proud
white puffed out chest will always give the eagle’s position away.
Note to the traveller: If you are visiting Lake Malawi and offered Chamba by the locals, please don’t confuse
this with the abovementioned fish Chambo. You may be in for a surprise, as instead of a meaty fish you will instead be treated with something more of the plant
variety - if you get my drift!
Snorkelling at the lake is a must! We would spend hours in the water watching the stunning array of cichlids, which come in every colour you can imagine. As you
snorkel among the rocks you can watch them build small sand piles for laying their eggs in. Fishing along the lake is great too. If you can take a day trip to Cape
Maclear I would highly recommend it. Cape Maclear is a Marine Park and the protected waters are simply heavenly to swim in. From here you can also take a canoe
trip including lunch.
If you’ve had enough ‘Greens’ or Malawian gin along the lakeside you could brave the crocodile farm in Mangochi. Here there is little more than a flimsy wire mesh
fence that separates you from a 6 foot crocodile! You also have the opportunity to handle the baby crocodiles, how I remember us giggling when they quacked like
ducklings!
Definitely take a day out to do some curio shopping along the lakeside. You can purchase African masks, or wooden carvings of hippos or fisherman and if you ask
nicely in advance, you can have something custom made. Be sure to haggle but also be fair, as hours of work go into these exquisite masterpieces. You can also swap
clothing and bargain just about anything for your desired piece of artwork. My favourite curios are the calendar elephants and the see no evil, hear no evil, speak
no evil monkeys.
After all the excitement at the Lake Malawi I suggest that you visit Liwonde National Park situated just south of the lake. I used to stay at Mvuu Camp on school trips and family holidays. The tented chalets face Mvuu River which has a huge population of crocodiles
and hippos. In the morning watch with amusement as the resident elephant herd comes down to bathe and play in the river. Hippos come out at night and you can hear
them munching the reeds nearby. I was in Malawi when two baby black rhinos, Justirini and Brookes, were introduced
to Liwonde ...well they were babies when I was there, word has it they are two tank sized rhinos now! Make sure you take a ‘booze’ cruise along the river.
Following a visit to Liwonde National Park you could head to Zomba Mountain which is a wonderful
experience. Driving up the winding road which takes you around the mountainside you will be amazed at the beautiful lush vegetation. Once at the top you’ll be accosted
by local villagers selling ‘rare’ crystals, which are beautiful but don’t be fooled! You can also buy delicious gooseberries and passion fruit which grow on the
mountain. Take a walk through some of the stunning pathways. There is a local stable which provides fantastic horse rides or if you don’t like horses, try one of
the donkeys! Among the horses and donkeys you can also visit the tame but massive Sable which lives with them. I highly recommend a visit to Kuchawe Inn for a tasty
buffet lunch which you can enjoy out on the balcony with panoramic views of the mountain.
Mulanje Mountain is near here where you can swim through the wonderfully cold waterfalls. Have a picnic on
the massive boulders or take a hike. Whatever you do, don’t hang around in the still pools at the bottom of the waterfall as you may have leaches attaching themselves
to you!
Once you move further down you can visit the Carlsberg factory in Blantyre. Brewery Tours are held every Friday and at the end of the tour you have one hour to
drink as many ‘Greens’ as you can!
The reason you’ll fall in love with Malawi – the people. For this reason Malawi is often called the Warm Heart of
Africa. Everywhere you go people wave and smile. There is always a helping hand on offer or an inquisitive stranger simply wishing to say hello and discover more
about you. I cannot emphasise enough how special the people of this country are….you just won’t want to say goodbye.
Wherever you go in Malawi make sure you have plenty of film. The photo opportunities are endless, as the sceneries
throughout are breathtaking! There is always more to explore so get packing and visit the gem that is Malawi.
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