Our Malawi Experience
You could be forgiven for thinking that such a tiny African country doesn’t really
have too much to offer, however, this couldn’t be further from the truth. Malawi is tucked in tightly between
Mozambique,
Tanzania and
Zambia. It is most famous for Lake Malawi and Liwonde National Park
but there is so much more to see and do.
You could be forgiven for thinking that such a tiny African country doesn’t really
have too much to offer, however, this couldn’t be further from the truth. Malawi is tucked in tightly between
Mozambique,
Tanzania and
Zambia. It is most famous for Lake Malawi and Liwonde National Park
but there is so much more to see and do.
I grew up in
Malawi and over the fourteen years I spent there I was fortunate enough
to visit every corner of the country. My favourite place in Malawi was, and still
remains, the
lake. With the placid clear blue waters lapping against the soft, sometimes
far too hot white sand, it truly is heaven on earth. Growing up I must have spent
hundreds of weekends staying at various lodges along Lake Malawi. I remember my little sister
and I would get to the Lake on a Friday afternoon after the three hour drive up
from Blantyre. As soon as we arrived we’d quickly change into our swimming costumes
and sprint across the sand, which I seem to remember being hotter than the surface
of the sun!
In the evenings we would sit out on the porch with Mum and Dad. Mum would have a
Malawian gin and tonic in hand (I am still looking for a Gin as tangy) and Dad a
‘Green’(Carlsberg). We would sit and watch the sun set together. No matter how many
times I have seen the sun set over Lake Malawi, it still takes my breath away. The Lake is
often called the Lake of Stars due to the phenomenal night skies. The star gazing
is incomparable and best done whilst lying on your back on the beach. I can assure
you that a shooting star is never far away.
During these weekends away Dad would treat us by taking us to Club Makakola where
you can enjoy a cocktail by the fabulous pool or hideaway in the tropical gardens.
The photographic treat came at three o’clock. On a pier that runs out into the lake,
a Malawian man with a whistle would walk out onto the pier holding the local chambo
fish in his hand. He would raise the chambo high above his head and blow on the
whistle. After a tentative wait you would hear the whoosh of the fish eagle’s wings
before you saw it. The bird would swoop and circle and once the man had the bird’s
attention he would throw the chambo high into the air, whereupon the magnificent
eagle would dive with precise aim and grab the fish. We would always be mesmerised
by the pure strength and beauty of this bird. No matter where you stay along the
Lake you will hear the fish eagle’s cry in the mornings and at dusk. Searching for
these magnificent birds along the lake isn’t hard; the flash of the proud white
puffed out chest will always give the eagle’s position away.
Note to the traveller: If you are visiting Lake Malawi and offered Chamba by the locals, please don’t
confuse this with the abovementioned fish Chambo. You may be in for a surprise,
as instead of a meaty fish you will instead be treated with something more of the
plant variety - if you get my drift!
Snorkelling at the lake is a must! We would spend hours in the water watching the
stunning array of cichlids, which come in every colour you can imagine. As you snorkel
among the rocks you can watch them build small sand piles for laying their eggs
in. Fishing along the lake is great too. If you can take a day trip to Cape Maclear
I would highly recommend it. Cape Maclear is a Marine Park and the protected waters
are simply heavenly to swim in. From here you can also take a canoe trip including
lunch.
If you’ve had enough ‘Greens’ or Malawian gin along the lakeside you could brave
the crocodile farm in Mangochi. Here there is little more than a flimsy wire mesh
fence that separates you from a 6 foot crocodile! You also have the opportunity
to handle the baby crocodiles, how I remember us giggling when they quacked like
ducklings!
Definitely take a day out to do some curio shopping along the lakeside. You can
purchase African masks, or wooden carvings of hippos or fisherman and if you ask
nicely in advance, you can have something custom made. Be sure to haggle but also
be fair, as hours of work go into these exquisite masterpieces. You can also swap
clothing and bargain just about anything for your desired piece of artwork. My favourite
curios are the calendar elephants and the see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil
monkeys.
After all the excitement at the Lake Malawi I suggest that you visit Liwonde National Park situated
just south of the lake. I used to stay at Mvuu Camp on school trips
and family holidays. The tented chalets face Mvuu River which has a huge population
of crocodiles and hippos. In the morning watch with amusement as the resident elephant
herd comes down to bathe and play in the river. Hippos come out at night and you
can hear them munching the reeds nearby. I was in Malawi when two baby black rhinos,
Justirini and Brookes, were introduced to Liwonde ...well they were babies when
I was there, word has it they are two tank sized rhinos now! Make sure you take
a ‘booze’ cruise along the river.
Following a visit to Liwonde National Park you could head to Zomba Mountain which
is a wonderful experience. Driving up the winding road which takes you around the
mountainside you will be amazed at the beautiful lush vegetation. Once at the top
you’ll be accosted by local villagers selling ‘rare’ crystals, which are beautiful
but don’t be fooled! You can also buy delicious gooseberries and passion fruit which
grow on the mountain. Take a walk through some of the stunning pathways. There is
a local stable which provides fantastic horse rides or if you don’t like horses,
try one of the donkeys! Among the horses and donkeys you can also visit the tame
but massive Sable which lives with them. I highly recommend a visit to Kuchawe Inn
for a tasty buffet lunch which you can enjoy out on the balcony with panoramic views
of the mountain.
Mulanje Mountain
is near here where you can swim through the wonderfully cold waterfalls. Have a
picnic on the massive boulders or take a hike. Whatever you do, don’t hang around
in the still pools at the bottom of the waterfall as you may have leaches attaching
themselves to you!
Once you move further down you can visit the Carlsberg factory in Blantyre. Brewery
Tours are held every Friday and at the end of the tour you have one hour to drink
as many ‘Greens’ as you can!
The reason you’ll fall in love with Malawi – the people. For this reason Malawi is often called
the Warm Heart of Africa. Everywhere you go people wave and smile. There is always
a helping hand on offer or an inquisitive stranger simply wishing to say hello and
discover more about you. I cannot emphasise enough how special the people of this
country are….you just won’t want to say goodbye.
Wherever you go in Malawi make sure you have plenty of film. The photo opportunities
are endless, as the sceneries throughout are breathtaking! There is always more
to explore so get packing and visit the gem that is Malawi.