Mozambique staff experience
Gregory Fox explores Mozambique on a self drive
Our journey began in Maputo, Mozambique’s capital city, and ended at the magnificent Benguerra Lodge some 700km’s North on a small island in the Bazaruto Archipelago. Immigration formalities over and excitement at its peak we headed into town to start our adventure. In Maputo we were greeted by a city which, although very run down, is a vibrant mix of grand old Portuguese Colonial architecture and African street culture bustling with restaurants and markets. Everywhere you look there seems to be something new and exciting from European style sidewalk cafes to street vendors selling anything from beautiful wood carvings and local food to medicine men peddling all kinds of weird and wonderful remedies. That night we went out to sample some of the celebrated Mozambiquean seafood. My mouth still waters as I recollect the peri peri prawns and fresh line fish. Thankfully this was the first of many seafood feasts we enjoyed during our stay.
We then headed North from Maputo to our next stop, the coastal town of Inhambane. Poverty is a harsh reality in Mozambique and heading out of Maputo we witnessed a sprawl of shanty towns that seem to envelope the city. The busy street markets; happy, friendly people and general industry are however testament to a people driving their country forward after two decades of civil war. From Maputo you head out into some of the most beautiful countryside I have been fortunate enough to visit. The road runs parallel to the coastline which winds its way through a system of lakes and estuaries and past secluded villages, hidden amongst the vast forests of coconut and cashew trees. Indigo seas flank endless untouched beaches creating a truly picture-perfect horizon.
The day was spent exploring the coastline and taking time stopping in the little villages to chat to the locals and barter for the odd curio such as hand carved bracelets and trinkets as well as their famous cashew nuts. The drive seemed to go by in a flash as we were treated to a visual spectacle of tropical vegetation, stunning scenery and the amazing local transport – ramshackled cars tied together with rope and wire and buses crammed with passengers and roofs piled high with luggage including livestock!
The next morning we awoke in Inhambane to another day in paradise! 28 degrees, clear skies and not a breath of wind; and this was mid-winter! The region surrounding Inhambane and the Barra Peninsular is again an area of great natural beauty. Fishermen on their dhows (Arab-styled traditional wooden sail boats with the large single triangular sail) go about their daily business, flanked by white, palm-lined beaches and indigo, coral-filled seas. The jetties at Inhambane and the nearby town of Maxixe are the Southern most anchorage for the Arab Dhows that sail the east African coastline. The town probably has the largest working fleet of dhows on the East African coastline, and grouped together makes for a spectacular sight. The region is also famous for the coconut palm, with roughly 2 million in the Inhambane area alone. Each tree is owned by and individual family who send their young sons to collect the palm sap for the production of a seriously potent wine called sura, a drink for which the locals have a great penchant for!
From Inhambane and the Barra peninsular we headed further North up to the small town of Vilanculos, which is only a short boat ride or light aircraft flight away from the world-famous Bazaruto Archipelago (Africa’s answer to Australia’s famous Whitsundays Islands or the Galapagos) and what has to be the highlight of my trip. The Bazaruto Archipelago and the surrounding marine environment is a complex and unique ecosystem that has been well protected by its isolation and limited tourism to the region.. The Bazaruto Archipelago has some of the most pristine coral reefs in the Indian Ocean and is home to one of the last viable populations of Dugong (similar to the US Manatee) on the East African Coast line.
The Archipelago is made up of 5 Islands, Bazaruto, Benguerra, Margaruque, Paradise or Santa Carolina and the tiny undeveloped Banque Island. Their fragile marine ecosystems range from vast shallows, layered with sea grass, tidal inlets, coral reefs to the deep Mozambique channel. This huge variety of habitat has resulted in a veritable tropical wonderland with a little something for everybody. You can explore the reefs and shallows by diving or snorkelling. There is a wonderful array of watersports on offer, from deep-sea fishing for marlin and sailfish, water-skiing and windsurfing. A sundown cruise on a local dhow is another ‘must-do’ (what better way to appreciate the stunning sunsets than from a beautiful sailboat, with a cold drink in hand!). And if that doesn’t tickle your fancy there are always the beautiful white palm lined beaches for those who prefer something a little more sedentary and relaxing such as taking time out in a hammock with a good book! Pure bliss!
We travelled onwards via light aircraft to Benguerra Island, where we stayed at the magnificent Benguerra Lodge. The aircraft flight was an experience in itself as we flew over the expansive bay and the islands of the archipelago. We strained our necks to take in the views and were rewarded by a truly breathtaking scene of indigo blue waters stretching out over the shallow bay, flanked by the tropical islands of the archipelago.
Our days were spent exploring the island on horseback; taking long swims in the warm, shallow waters; snorkelling and diving; sundown cruises on dhows; fishing and we also have fond memories of our beautiful seafood picnics on the surrounding sandbanks.
The lasting memories of my trip will be the friendliness of the people, the incredible scenery and the deep-blue tropical ocean. Self-drive was a great way to travel Mozambique as it also allowed us to see many parts of the country that most visitors don’t get to visit when they fly in. I got to personally interact with the local people through visiting the local markets, bartering for cashew nuts on the side of the road or just having a chat with locals at petrol stations. My overwhelming impression was of a happy, proud community, excited about their futures despite the many hardships of the past.
Mozambique is a hidden paradise. It is one of Africa’s great success stories and is amazing to see how far it has come since the devastation of civil war. It is developing at a lightning pace so I predict it will not be long before mass tourism arrives. If you do want to see this wondrous destination in its pristine state you are advised to visit sooner rather than later. I for one can’t wait to go back!