Our experience in South Africa
I visited the Kruger area in Aug of 2007 in the midst of the winter dry season. I flew into the Kruger Mpumalanga Airport near the city of Nelspruit and picked up a hire car. The first part of my journey had me driving to the southern-most gate in the Kruger National Park called Malelane.
This very famous National Park has been a protected area since 1898 and is roughly the size of Wales. The park offers varying levels of accommodation from luxury lodges to affordable and comfortable chalets to camp sites. The road network is good and therefore allows visitors to self drive in their own vehicles. All places of interest are well sign posted and at the larger rest camps you will find petrol stations, restaurants, shops and information centres.
While driving through the park on my first day I was lucky enough to have sightings of white rhino, giraffes, crocodiles, loads of impala and various birds, including around six of the rare ground hornbill.
I stayed one night in this southern sector of the Kruger Park in a luxury lodge called Jock's Safari Lodge which is in its own private concession. I was therefore able to combine my own game viewing with a guided game drive. Vehicles are open and obviously having a specialist guide and tracker on had greatly increases chances of one seeing more game at closer range.
From there it was time for me to make my way to the famous Sabi Sands Private Game Reserve which forms a part of the Greater Kruger. In 1993 this reserve agreed to drop its fences in order that animals can freely move between the areas. The Game Reserve was formed in 1950 and comprises many private game farms covering an area of 56,000 Ha of "Bushveld".
Being a private reserve it does not allow day visitors, unlike the National Park. This means that visitors are treated to huge tracks of land which may only be shared by at most 4 or 5 other game drive vehicles. The other advantage of game viewing in the Sabi Sands is that the guides are allowed to drive 'off road' which allows for incredibly close up game viewing. The guides and trackers are usually excellent and ensure up close and personal sightings for fabulous photos and pure observation. The vehicles remain in constant contact to ensure good sightings are shared.
The animals in the Sabi Sands have become quite accustomed to vehicles making it debatably the best place for viewing the Big Five in Africa. On two game drives one is almost guaranteed to have seen each of these much sought after creatures – most often than not 2 or 3 times over.
I was very graciously hosted by Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge, Nottens Bush Lodge and Singita Boulders Lodge, all of which offer luxury accommodation and quality guiding in beautiful surroundings. I was also lucky enough to visit all the Sabi Sabi properties including Bush Camp, Selati and Little Bush as well as the hugely popular Lion Sands property (River Lodge and Ivory Lodge).
Generally visitors to the area like to stay 2 to 3 nights at one lodge before moving on to other destinations, however, I found that quite often than not visitors with slightly more time on their hands stayed at 2 lodges in the Sabi Sands offering them different experiences with the same superb game viewing.
Being South Africa's winter, the days were warm and dry with temperatures reaching 28 degrees Celsius. Mornings and evenings were chilly but blankets and hot water bottles are provided on game drives to keep the chill at bay. This weather also had another advantage – I didn't see one mosquito in my week's stay! As the summer months come the Kruger becomes wetter and much hotter. I enjoyed the relative comfort of this winter experience, however, the landscape was particularly dry and so were the large majority of river beds. Generally dry season offers better views around water holes for obviously reasons while the summer months are more lush in scenery.
During my stay I also managed to visit the area known as White River which is approx. 1 ½ hours away from the Sabi Sands. The area is particularly beautiful being comprised largely of eucalyptus and fur trees. Two properties Cybele and Jatinga offer guests an opportunity to relax in gorgeous and peaceful country surroundings before or after a stay at the Kruger. They are for the large part for staying put and relaxing but Cybele does offer a host of activities which include opportunities for guests to visit the spectacular Panorama Route.
So for 3 nights in the Sabi Sands I had 6 wonderful and highly entertaining game drives with brilliant guides and trackers.
Here are some of my highlights
Up close and personal elephant sightings – so close that we could observe and hear one of them passing wind!
Following 4 lionesses while on a morning drive to finally see them sipping from a watering hole enabling me to get one beautiful shot of their reflections in the water
Observing a female leopard with her cub and following them for quite some time before finally settling down together and the cub licking its mother lovingly. I was also very excited to see a male leopard on one night drive. While he calmly allowed us to take our photos I was fascinated to watch the saliva literally pouring out of his mouth
Catching a year old white rhino suckling from its mother
Spending the better part of a morning in amongst a group of 6 female and 1 male white rhinos watching them drinking from yet another water hole. Again a spectacular photo!
As the sun set on one game drive being literally surrounded by approximately 150 buffalos
Following a wild dog (very rare) into its laer to find another 2 dogs and 14 puppies! Those 40 minutes or so in silent observation are truly one of my best safari highlights ever! The puppies were literally running under the vehicles and we got to watch them devoir their dinner with all of their little tails flickering wildly. Unforgettable!
Watching the evening sun set over incredibly diverse and beautiful scenery. Nothing can compare to an African sunset.
When the sun had gone down looking up at the sky and seeing it literally covered with stars and seeing the Southern Cross for the first time in months.
Lying in bed at Nottens Bush Camp in my electricity free and candlelit room hearing the hyenas calling to one another
Sharing dinners with other guests in outdoor 'bomas' around a huge fire under the stars
Early morning wake up calls (which okay weren't that enjoyable) but the feeling of a crisp cool morning which gradually warms on your back and greets another new and beautiful day in Africa. And the excitement that morning of your first sighting of the day.
Evening 'sundowners' on night drives
My bush walk at Nottens and my guide Jo's brilliant stories and his teaching me about the various trees, birds and animal tracks we were observing.
Being thoroughly looked after at each camp and being fed incredibly tasting and well presented meals
Seeing 'first timer's to Africa falling in love
Falling in love all over again…
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