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Honeymoons typically mean beaches and romance, but adventure called. Our trip took us to Mount Kilimanjaro (5985m/19341ft), Africa's highest free-standing mountain, on Tanzania's Kenyan border.
The mountain's solitary grandeur sparked excitement and apprehension. Could we, in a week, reach its summit? Only one way to find out. We chose the scenic, popular Machame route, opting for a seven-day trek (including acclimatisation) over the minimum six, despite the potential crowds.
Finally, after much anticipation, our climb began.
We quickly understood why our route was described as scenic. We were enveloped by a lush, green rainforest, and the path was easily navigable. Our guide promptly taught us the two most crucial words that would sustain us throughout the next week: "Pole, pole!"—translated to "slowly, slowly." It's tempting to surge ahead at the lower altitudes when feeling strong and energetic, but it's invariably best to allow your guide to dictate the pace.
We arrived at Machame Camp just as the sun began to set. We were astounded by the exceptional treatment from our crew. Our tent was erected, we had hot water for freshening up, and dinner was imminent. We knew that eating would become increasingly challenging over the ensuing days as the altitude began to exert its effects, so we thoroughly enjoyed the meal and then settled into our tent for a much-needed rest.
A typical day on Kilimanjaro commences between 6 and 7 a.m. As the sun ascends, you hear the porters preparing breakfast, and the more spirited groups encourage their team for the day with a rendition of what is commonly known as "The Kilimanjaro Song." The only phrase we managed to learn was the unmistakable "Hakuna Matata!"
The subsequent days presented significant physical challenges. A steep ascent to Shira Camp led us into the lower alpine zone, offering our first glimpses of Kibo and Mount Meru, and, naturally, the ever-imposing summit of Kilimanjaro. However, our motivation was truly tested during the climb to Lava Tower. At 4,600m, the risk of altitude sickness became a tangible reality. Headaches, coupled with nausea, made eating lunch nearly impossible. Yet, Guadence, our lead guide, consistently emphasised the importance of maintaining our bodies' fuel and health. Arriving at our camp a few hours later, having descended 700m, seemed somewhat counterintuitive, but this proved to be a crucial day for acclimatisation. This is one of the advantages of the Machame route: climb high, sleep low.
The Barranco Wall, a much-discussed part of the trek, requires basic scrambling, though no technical skills. The infamous "Kissing Rock," a narrow section demanding close proximity to the rock face, proved particularly challenging. Guadence ensured our safety, and despite its daunting appearance, I found the wall enjoyable.
The following day, though described as short and easy, revealed the effects of altitude; a three-hour, 700m climb felt anything but. The landscape grew hostile, with rocky terrain and seemingly endless gravel paths. Changeable weather necessitated constant layering. Our motivation stemmed from the summit view, knowing we'd soon be gazing down.
Summit night was undeniably the most challenging experience of my life. Beyond the physical strain of sleep deprivation, altitude sickness, and exhaustion, the mental challenge of navigating in darkness was profound. Headtorches illuminated only a few meters ahead, obscuring any sense of progress. At times, I struggled to distinguish climbers' headtorches from the stars.
"Pole, pole" acquired new significance. Though overtaken by other groups, Guadence emphasised the importance of our own pace. This proved crucial as we encountered climbers forced to turn back due to altitude sickness. The thought of failing so close to the summit was heartbreaking, so we persevered, offering encouragement to each other.
We paused to witness the sunrise, a moment I'll never forget. Suddenly, everything fell into perspective. Realising how far we'd come solidified our strength and determination to finish.
Daylight brought warmth, thawing our frozen water and extremities, which had suffered in the sub-zero temperatures despite layers of gloves and socks. After what felt like an eternity, we reached Stella Point. Though not the true summit, we knew Uhuru Peak was only 30 minutes away. The magnitude of our achievement struck me, and the final walk was profoundly emotional.
Words fail to capture the feeling of standing on the Roof of Africa. You're elevated above the clouds, surrounded by the breathtaking scenery of the ice caps. Falling behind the other groups proved advantageous, allowing us to savor the moment and capture photographs without the usual crowds. However, Guadence urged us onward, mindful of the thin air. Staring at a handful of Jelly Babies, wondering how I could possibly eat them, confirmed my body's altered state.
The descent was swift, and as we approached the Mweka Gate, the growing sound of singing and cheering signaled our impending celebration. We had conquered Kilimanjaro.
Rest assured, our honeymoon wasn't over. We couldn't leave Tanzania without experiencing its renowned landscapes, so we indulged in a week-long safari through Arusha, Tarangire, Ngorongoro Crater, Lake Ndutu, and the Serengeti.
We witnessed the Big Five and a diverse array of wildlife, and the luxurious accommodations provided a welcome change from sleeping bags and tents. The staff's enthusiastic congratulations upon learning of our Kilimanjaro climb made the experience even more special, despite their likely familiarity with such feats.
It was the perfect respite after a demanding week, making our trip truly ideal.
To anyone considering Kilimanjaro, I urge you to pursue it. However, don't underestimate the mountain. It demands weeks and months of rigorous preparation, but the enduring memories and sense of accomplishment are undeniably worthwhile.
Considering climbing Kilimanjaro? Honeymoon or not, this expedition is one to tick off your bucket list! Reach out to our Travel Experts to start planning your adventure!
