This Is Why People Cry When They Leave Kenya

“This is why people cry when they leave Kenya...”

I said that, and I meant it. Because I truly felt it. As someone who’s been fortunate enough to travel extensively in Africa and beyond, I knew this trip would be special, but it still managed to exceed all expectations. It unfolded with a depth that transcended the typical itinerary. It burrowed under the skin. That’s the hallmark of travelling with Mahlatini.

Stop 1: Nairobi

Our first stop was Karen, Nairobi. We stayed at Hemingways, and you can actually see the Ngong Hills from the property, which were made famous by Out of Africa.

Two nights here felt perfectly calibrated: one to shed the transatlantic skin, the next to explore Nairobi. There are some incredible community projects to visit, like the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust and Kazuri Beads, a social enterprise empowering women from underprivileged backgrounds. Beyond that, there’s great shopping and brilliant places to eat. Nairobi really hums with a burgeoning energy and gives you a real flavour of the country before you head off on safari.

Stop 2: Amboseli

Angama Amboseli

After our time in Nairobi, we flew with Scenic Air Safaris for Amboseli. As the wheels touched the ground at the Kimana Airstrip, the breathtaking sight of Mount Kilimanjaro greeted us. We were fortunate enough to see the mountain in its full glory—snow-capped and standing proudly against the sky. It was absolutely stunning.

Set in its own private sanctuary, Angama Amboseli offers a feeling of total seclusion. We were lucky to spot lion, elephant, giraffe, and plenty of plains game. At one point, we came across a congregation of nearly 100 vultures surrounding a kill.

Angama Amboseli is a truly remarkable property. Even the Maasai performances here resonated with an authenticity that bypassed the usual tourist veneer.

Amboseli National Park

We also ventured into Amboseli National Park for a full-day excursion. One of the highlights of our trip was seeing Craig, one of the last Super Tuskers, who truly captivated. To witness this gentle giant, tusks scraping the earth, with Kilimanjaro as his backdrop, felt like stepping into a forgotten era. The sheer scale of it, the quiet power, was humbling.

Then there were the marshlands, fed by Kilimanjaro's glacial melt. Elephants waded in the shallows, playfully splashing and feeding, while the echoed calls of nearby flamingos and waterfowl rung out. The contrast between the dry plains and the oasis was a visceral reminder of the beauty of nature.

Stop 3: Angama Mara

The flight to Angama Mara with Scenic Air Safaris was an experience in itself. Soaring low over the Maasai Mara, we gained a privileged view of elephants dotting the landscape like old stones. Lake Magadi's crimson waters, straddling the Tanzanian border, appeared almost otherworldly as we skimmed its surface, flamingos scattering.

Game Drives in the Mara Triangle

Angama Mara’s access to the quieter Mara Triangle is one of its greatest assets. From its position on the escarpment, the lodge has a private slip road that descends straight into the reserve.

Setting out at dawn, with a breakfast packed for the plains, we were rewarded with a landscape that felt entirely our own. Driving to the Tanzanian border, planting one foot in each country, was a surreal punctuation mark on the immensity. For miles, the only witness was my guide.

Beading Studio

The lodge also has a beautiful beading studio. I had my safari jacket embroidered by the talented women working there, and also had bangles made. Watching them work, chatting as they beaded, was a touching insight into the artistry and community spirit that underpins the project.

Out of Africa Picnic

On the very site where a scene from Out of Africa was filmed, the team recreated the iconic picnic scene. A gramophone, a bottle of bubbly, and a Maasai blanket laid out against one of the most spectacular views I’ve ever seen—it was pure nostalgia and movie magic.

They even host screenings of the film at the lodge. After watching it, being able to stand in the very same place brings the story full circle. You find yourself thinking, “This is the exact scene from the film!”

Hot Air Balloon

If you’re not afraid of heights, this is a must-do. On the day we did it, there was barely any wind, so we stayed in the air for two glorious hours instead of the usual one. The hot air balloon ride was a surrender to the silence of the dawn. Drifting above the awakening Mara, the only sound the gentle hiss of the burner keeping you aloft, revealed a world draped in mist. Hippos wallowed in the rivers, giraffes stretched their elegant necks, and lions moved with a regal grace. As other balloons drifted past, I felt a true sense of wonder.

Angama Mara Mobile Safari Camp

Then we had a night at the Angama Mara Safari Camp, which is their mobile camp. Out of season, they move it out of the Mara Triangle and up onto the plains and the escarpment.

I think it would be even better during the migration when the camp is in the triangle because you get those incredible views of the migration. It moves three times with the migration, so it’s always in a hot spot. For guests who want to be in the thick of things during the migration period, it’s definitely the place to be.

The site is beautifully set up, and the chef creates amazing food. Gathered around a crackling fire, gin and tonics in hand, the day's stories unfolded under a canopy of stars. One could easily imagine the heightened drama when the camp moves with the great migration, placing you at the heart of the spectacle.

Stop 4: Laikipia

From there, we flew up to Segera in Laikipia—a truly magical place, beautifully appointed. The villas and rooms are thoughtfully designed to blend seamlessly with the landscape.

Segera is part of The Long Run, a conservation initiative working to transform once-degraded land into thriving ecosystems. Seeing what this place looked like 20 years ago and what it’s become today is a testament to the power of conservation.

Art plays a huge role here too. Sculptures are dotted throughout the grounds, and the old stables have been transformed into a creative dining space, each stall holding an artwork. There are even curated art tours that explore the significance of African art and culture in context. For anyone who loves art, Segera is the perfect place to experience it alongside a wildlife adventure.

Canine Unit

We spent a morning with the canine unit, where we met two bloodhounds and learned about their training. Watching the bloodhounds track a scent through the bush was a powerful demonstration of their vital role in anti-poaching efforts. The intensity of their work was palpable.

Kenya Choppers Experience

They removed the doors of the helicopter for an unobstructed view, and we flew low across the reserve with Mount Kenya directly ahead. We saw plenty of game, and there had been some rain recently, so we even got to fly over waterfalls that were flowing, adding an extra element of magic to the experience.

Segera also boasts a beautiful spa and a wine tower where you choose your bottle for dinner. Everything here has been so thoughtfully designed.

Stop 5: Diani

The final leg of our journey brought us to the shores of Diani on the coast.

Alfajiri Villas

As you walk in to Alfajiri, you're greeted with the most beautiful vistas of the ocean. The staff were amazing, and every morning, they would go down to the fishermen and bring back the freshest seafood: fresh lobster, fresh crab, fresh prawns. The seafood was absolutely phenomenal. If you don’t eat seafood, they’re Italian owners, so they also serve fantastic Italian food.

My early morning walks along the deserted beach were a meditation, and a lovely counterpoint to the vibrancy of the safari. You can also enjoy diving trips or venture out to Galu Beach and the nearby sandbank for snorkelling. You cross over on a traditional ngalawa—it looks like a small dhow—and the guides paddle you out themselves. It’s all really authentic. You spend a couple of hours on this stunning white sandbank, surrounded by crystal-clear waters, just snorkelling and relaxing.

An Emotional End to a Moving Trip

All of the properties were so different in their own right. From city to savanna to sea, each stop felt like a completely different holiday. But the one constant throughout it all? The people...

Time and again, I found myself moved by the kindness, warmth, and sincerity of everyone we met. The cliché of not wanting to leave became a tangible emotion. It wasn't just the stunning landscapes or the incredible wildlife encounters; it was the connection forged with the individuals who shared their home with such generosity. They remembered the little things—how I liked my drink, what made me smile—and it’s those thoughtful details that stay with you.

You hear clients say things like, “I wanted to cry when I left”—and I felt that on this trip. I almost did.

If you’re ready to experience it for yourself, connect with a travel expert who understands the art of crafting journeys that leave an indelible mark.